Hum on the island of Vis

Hum on the island of Vis

A crown of the island that stopped in time

When travelling around the world and exploring its particularities, we often forget to observe the magic locations that are a stone’s throw away from where we are. These are the places easy to fall in love with and which we cannot, even if we wanted, erase from our hearts or memories. These locations get easily under one’s skin as they ooze with various tiny singularities, much more vivid than any postcard could represent. This is the beauty that the island of Vis boasts and that many lovers of Mediterranean magic search for.

Svjetionik Stončica
Alan Čaplar

Vis is an island facing open seas, one of the remotest middle Dalmatian islands. Although rather small (18 kilometres wide and 9 kilometres long), it is extremely hilly exceeding the height of 500 meters and displaying a network of mountain trails.

 

The main feature of its relief are three rocky ridges whose starting point is a semicircle ridge range above the town of Komiža, on the western part of the island where the highest peaks of Hum and Mali Hum are. From there, ridges gradually descend towards the town of Vis and the sea. The highest peak is Hum (587 m) but the main mountaineering target is the Chapel of The Holy Spirit located in its proximity. From this point, one can admire the view of the town of Komiža, the island of Biševo and even further, if it is a clear day, the volcanic reef of Jabuka.

Vis
Alan Čaplar

Besides the marked mountain trails leading from Podšpilje, Vis and Komiža to the Chapel of The Holy Spirit, there are mountain markers on almost all island trails, which allows for numerous hiking possibilities. Passing the island transversally, from Vis across Tito’s caves and the top of Hum towards Komiža, is particularly interesting. It takes 5 hours for this kind of a tour. The trail in Vis starts at the point of bifurcation of the new and the old road to Komiža (1 km from the port of Vis). It then ascends for an hour towards the ridge, it crosses it, and then arrives to a village of an unusual name – Žena Glava (the woman’s head). From the upper part of the village, the trail ascends again towards the ridge offering more and more beautiful views.

 

Tito’s caves are a particularly interesting place on the mount of Hum. These are two small caves with no adornments and with partially walled entrances. It is here that Josip Broz and partisan leaders stayed secretly for several months during World War II (1944). The access to the cave is made of 275 stairs. The mountain trail connecting Komiža and the top of Hum is much steeper and is not recommended during summer months as it is fully exposed to sun.

Vis
Alan Čaplar

Another extremely attractive mountain destination is located above the town of Vis. It is the mountain lodge St Andrew, erected on a prominent top above the port of Vis. Two equally picturesque and agreeable trails ascend to the lodge and therefore the ascent can be planned as a circular walk. Both trails intersect the road that bypasses Vis from the upper side and then wind and ascend on the slopes of the mount of St Andrew. Both trails bypass the top and exit on a macadam road passing behind the summit. A paved road bifurcates and ends at the lodge of St Andrew following a ten-minute climb on a flatter terrain. From there, a spectacular bird’s eye view is offered of most of the island of Vis and the town of Vis.